Madison Quakers still working in My Lai

Spring always reminds me of Vietnam. Madison Quakers still doing good work, building Campassion Houses, bringing people together, Thanks to Mr. Phan Van Do, Mike Boehm and supporters from continuing to build bridges. See www.mylaipeacepark.org

Planning Marge's next Trip

Marge hopes to have a Blog-stay posted!

Faces to Remember

Post-script Angkor Wat

Truly a world wonder. Covers 60 sq. miles and refers to a temple complex that takes days to cover. The main temple, also called Angkor Wat was built in the 12 century by King Suravaran II during the height of the great Khmer kingdomes (go to wikipedia for lots more info). At least 10 more temples and major pieces of temples (like the elephant gate) offer wonder and amazement. Built by hand and on the backs of elephants who carried the sandstone over mountains, these temples equal the great pyramids.My favorite is the small but exquisite Banteay Srei, built in the 10th century of a sandsone that allowed tiny detailed carving of Hindu legends. Go see them-it's hard for the Cambodia Govt. to protect and preserve them. Looting and nature already diminish these great works. P.S. DOUBLE CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR FULL SIZE

re-entry

Well, I had to light the wood stove this morning, so I know I'm not in Cambodia any longer...A lot to unpack from the suitcase and from my mind. I hope to correct spellings and add photos to my blog so that I have a more complete record. Right now the US just looks like "too much," the way it always does after a trip to another place. The grocery stores are obscene, the TV nuts, the people too flabby, the news is lies...I know I will recoup some balance for my dear and wacky country. I do love Amerika, but...I take home the knowledge that we are too unaware of the lasting damage we do to others protecting our self-interest.The unexploded ordnance in Cambodia is horrifying. We are relieved that we are close to being "out" of Iraq, but we won't be-war lasts a long time. I am also very aware, after a month and half of watching Asia TV, Asia, especially China, is on the rise. The tide is shifting. Obviously, I am not an expert on either Cambodia or Vietnam, but feel heightened awareness about the many contributions and rich cultures of both places and feel so grateful that I could be a visitor. Now Marge and I will sift through our Madison Quaker experiences and make a report-which I'll post later. For now, time to get the garden in.

Temples, more temples...

I have had three days of temple exploring-really awsome. Can't wait to upload my 500 pictures! It has been wonderful to immerse myself in this 9th-12th century ancient empire and all its glories. It does cause one to ponder empires and their eventual fall from glory. Cambodia is a struggling country and quite poor, but people are very kind and friendly even with a continuing resentment about US bombs and unexploded mines harming people to this day. What a weight our government has left on the world.The only harsh words I heard were about my lack of care for my three day temple pass. I managed to tear a corner of it,and that was frowned on by several gatekeepers. There is quite a bit of respect for protocol here.And still alot of traditional religous practices-mixes of Buddhasim and left over Hindu. I've been praying to false (who knows?) idols quite a bit, just to see the drill. For Vishnu worship, we brought fruit & money, all the Buddhas get lotus flowers, insence sticks and money. It reminds me of Catholic rituals. bowing & prayers. Much more drumming around the bigger pagodas. I think I've earned some merit...reminds me of chants for souls in purgatory. Whatever happened to purgatory anyway?

Being templed-out I spent the day with some market shopping and then respite from the heat, sipping lemon drink in a "butterfly" tea cafe which had netting over the garden to keep butterflies in. I went to the local bookstore and traded a book for postcards, had coffee with some Australian folks I met and generally hung out. I am in the last leg of journey now, headed for Hanoi tomorrw. It's been tough to have ten days alone, but I've chatted up strangers and watched weird TV at night.It's a very different experience from my time in Vietnam. Being a tourist is really an experience in privilege and difference. I feel even more grateful for my time in Tinh Khe, connected and part of a community, however briefly.

"Madame, You have many dollars"

Well, my 3rd day here and I am weary of the considerable poverty, endless begging, entries...I've talked to a few other travelers and we all agreed that we are actually spending more than we ever planned to because of guilt and sorrow. It does seem tough to haggle over a dollar, so in the tourist areas, one collapses and just gives it away. It is possible to be a backpacker tourist on very little money, but you have to harden yourself and stay out of the nicer tour areas.There are signs telling you to NOT give to child beggars since it encourages adults to use children that way. And huge government billboards try and scare the touring pedophiles with pictures of handcuffs and other dire consequences.Still, every public area and all temples are surrounded by pretty pitiful looking beggars.An army of monks prowls the streets begging during the day,and bigger armies of prostitutes at night.I am starting to remember fondly all the pesky,hard working and entrepreneurial street vendors in Hanoi trying to sell stuff.I imagine if you stick around Cambodia you figure out ways of balancing your needs with the ocean of poverty. I've met and seen a lot of wonderful young American and European people and orgs. working to keep kids out of the sex trade, and teach them job skills. And there are big parts of the city, relatively prosperous where NGO staff and other professionals live.But you can still go on a tour of huge garbage dumps where kids live and collect or go off to visit the huge orphanages, probably a better deal for many kids. Early this morning I went to the big square outside the palace where more well off parents and grandparents bring toddlers to buy corn and chase pigeons. Adorable,well dressed 2 & 3yr olds tear around and send clouds of pigeons flying.It's a treat to see.And I love seeing the scrubbed school children off to morning classes. I have no idea of percentages but I know many families who can afford it, give their government grant for schooling to families who need it. Not being mother Teresa, I confess I went to the Foreign Correspondent Club (FCC) for good coffee, fruit and banana bread this morning. Walking along the riverfront, I gave small change to a beggar with an artificial leg, watched people buy lotus flowers for the temples, watched a spirited game of soccer, saw fishermen throw nets on the river and tried to just be present in this surprising city. I am frequently amazed to remember that Pol Pot totally emptied the city, forcing everyone to go to the country or, if you were educated, to torture centers and executed. From such a ghost city, this new and ancient one has sprung up and lives.